FORGIVE THE FISH METAPHOR, BUT THE SUSHI IS TELLING

The sushi was awesome, though the kids were of divided minds. We sat at the tables in the back—they have exactly 10 chairs in a tiny back room (and a counter up front that seats 4). The fish was fresh and the spicy salmon roll rocked my socks. The kids were a bit taken aback by a strange maki piece that was PINK instead of the usual seaweed black. I asked the owner what it was: soybean paper! I didn’t get one, so didn’t taste it this time. Anders said it was nothing to write home about, but it sure...